Head
Should be of full size, but by no means heavy. Brow pronounced, but not high or sharp. There should be a good length and breadth, sufficient to give in a dog hound a girth in front of the ears of fully 16 inches. The nose should be long (4½ inches) and wide, with open nostrils. Ears set on low and lying close to the cheeks. Most English hounds are “rounded” which means that about 1½ inches is taken off the end of the ear. The teeth must meet squarely, either a pig-mouth (overshot) or undershot being a disqualification.
Neck
Must be long and clean, without the slightest throatiness, not less than 10 inches from cranium to shoulder. It should taper nicely from shoulders to head, and the upper outline should be slightly convex.
The Shoulders should be long and well clothed with muscle, without being heavy, especially at the points. They must be well sloped, and the true arm between the front and the elbow must be long and muscular, but free from fat or lumber. Chest and Back Ribs–The chest should girth over 31 inches in a 24-inch hound, and the back ribs must be very deep.
Back and Loin
Must both be very muscular, running into each other without any contraction between them. The couples must be wide, even to raggedness, and the topline of the back should be absolutely level, the Stern well set on and carried gaily but not in any case curved over the back like a squirrel’s tail. The end should taper to a point and there should be a fringe of hair below. The Hindquarters or propellers are required to be very strong, and as endurance is of even greater consequence than speed, straight stifles are preferred to those much bent as in a Greyhound. Elbows set quite straight, and neither turned in nor out are a sine qua non. They must be well let down by means of the long true arm above mentioned.
Legs and Feet
Every Master of Foxhounds insists on legs as straight as a post, and as strong; size of bone at the ankle being especially regarded as all important. The desire for straightness had a tendency to produce knuckling-over, which at one time was countenanced, but in recent years this defect has been eradicated by careful breeding and intelligent adjudication, and one sees very little of this trouble in the best modern Foxhounds. The bone cannot be too large, and the feet in all cases should be round and catlike, with well-developed knuckles and strong horn, which last is of the greatest importance.
Color and Coat
Not regarded as very important, so long as the former is a good “hound color,” and the latter is short, dense, hard, and glossy. Hound colors are black, tan, and white, or any combination of these three, also the various “pies” compounded of white and the color of the hare and badger, or yellow, or tan. TheSymmetry of the Foxhound is of the greatest importance, and what is known as “quality” is highly regarded by all good judges.
Scale of Points
| Head |
5
|
| Neck |
10
|
| Shoulders |
10
|
| Chest and back ribs |
10
|
| Back and loin |
15
|
| Hindquarters |
10
|
| Elbows |
5
|
| Legs and feet |
20
|
| Color and coat |
5
|
| Stern |
5
|
| Symmetry |
5
|
| Total |
100
|
Disqualification
Pig-mouth (overshot) or undershot.
Approved 1935